Wednesday, July 28, 2010

1948 slip and panties

And now on to the rest of the outfit--what other people won't see!  The dress definitely needed a slip to go underneath, and while I was at it, my SIL can always use another diaper cover for Evie.    This one started different-- drafting facings for the inside of the slip.    I traced the back and front, went about three inches down on each side, and connected the sides with a nice, curved line.  On the front facing, I added an inch to the straps so that I could have them button instead of sewing shoulder seams, as I was unsure if it would fit over Gracie's head.

I used regular tracing paper to do it, and made sure to cut two of each piece--one of the fabric, and one of the interfacing.  The next step was cutting out.  I added two inches to the bottom of the skirt pieces and an inch to the front shoulder strap.  I went ahead and cut the slash lines (one of the weirdest parts of this pattern) and then basted down the previously traced transfers.  After stamping, I embroidered them.  As with the 1946 dress, it used outline stitch and french knots.  Unlike the dress, it also used colonial knots and satin stitching.  Colonial knots are pretty much  just bigger french knots.  I hooped it because that makes it easier.

  After that, I just followed instructions.  The slip is lace-edged, and the ruffles are serious!  I cut them on my rotary cutting mat, sewed them together, and then narrow hemmed and added lace before I gathered them for ruffles and sewed it on.

The pattern actually called for french seams!  The most interesting part of the pattern was the way the skirt of the slip was gathered only at the sides, then sewn to the top.  I encased that seam in bias tape.  I also encased the ruffle seams in bias tape.  After that, it was just a matter of top stitching the waist seams, edging the neck and sleeve holes in lace, and sewing on the facings.  The edge of the facings were encased in bias tape, and then whip stitched to the waist seams.  After that, I added the buttons and buttonholes, and here's the finished product--

And here are details of the embroidery--


The large knots are colonial knots.  :) I made a few construction changes to the panties, as well.  The main change was that I assembled the front and back and even ran the elastic through the casing before I sewed them together.  Everything else was pretty much as the pattern asked for.  Here is the finished product--

  And here are details of the embroidery--

  Oh!  My other change to this was embroidering the yoke of the panties.  It wasn't on the pattern.  The yoke and the released tucks are the most interesting part of the panties, I think.  And it's also interesting that the legs are just left open.  Out of different fabric and lengthened, this could easily be a pair of shorts for Gracie!  Tomorrow,  for the curious, I'll post pictures of what the inside looks like, and I'll be reviewing the patterns over on Pattern Review.

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