Tuesday, January 17, 2012

Sewing Terms: Continuous Lap

Continuous lap is a sewing term that isn't really seen much in modern patterns; it's seen more in heirloom sewing and vintage sewing.  Really, all it is is a way of binding off raw edges in a placket when it doesn't fall on a seam.  I hate it.  Truthfully, I've redrafted pattern pieces to include a seam in the right place just to avoid continuous lap! 

The original instructions I found last year had you pinning bias tape along the slash in the fabric in a straight line and then sewing it down.  I've since found some that take in account the fact that a slash is, essentially a "V", and avoids the slight gathering that happens with the way I've done it here.

This is the puckering that results from my original instructions.  After you've sewn the bias tape on one side, fold it over the raw edge, pin it, and sew that down.
Now your placket won't fray.  After this is sewn, foldthe placket back into position and decide which side will be the top.  Fold the bias tape under on that side, topstitch it, and then sew diagonally across the bottom like this "/".  That will secure your continuous lap as the bottom part of the placket.

The end result will look something like this--

It's now ready to attach to the bodice or cuffs of your garment.

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