The coats, part 1.

Early mornings and late nights here on Granny Lane.  I know I've been a bad blogger and not posting, but I have been busy this week.  Bit, who has never had a great relationship with hats, wants one--she told me that she wanted views 1 and 2 because they had hats.  This, from the child who has steadfastly refused to wear one since she was a baby!  Ah, well.  The hat from the pattern won't fit.  Bit has a 20 inch head, and the hat is definitely too small.  To add insult to injury, the hat included in Boo's pattern, Butterick 4009, is too big!



There was a review of Boo's pattern  on Pattern Review that said it was insanely oversized, so I dug into the stash and whipped up a quick wearable muslin to check for sizing.  I don't know what that sewist did, because the size she's supposed to be fit fairly well.

(I'm making A.)  So today, I spent time altering patterns.  Boo's coat was altered to allow a center back pleat.  Bit's was changed for length, the neck was widened (I'm considering doing that for Boo, too because the neck was a little tightish.)  and the sleeves lengthened so that they'll have cuffs.  Since Bit's arms got 1/2" longer in the last two weeks, I decided that adding three inches of cuffs was a bright idea!

And then came the hat problem.  Boo has a 17" head.  The smallest hat on the pattern is for an 18" head.  And to add insult to injury, I whipped up a muslin of Bit's hat because it didn't give a hat size, only to find that it's much too small.  But I'm stubborn.  And aside from being very, very cute, it'll keep their heads warm.

When my other niece was blessed, I used Simplicity 2908  to make a bonnet as part of her blessing outfit.  From experience, I know it runs a little big, and to make it even better, XS is for a 17" head, and L is for a 20" head!

I'm making the tulip hat without the ric rack and the applique.  It has the same flavor as the original, only without all the darting.  I spent some time preparing the pattern for that, too, and last weekend, I preshrunk the wool.  I've been reviewing the you tube videos and blog posts from Gertie's Lady Grey coat sew along last year. I've come to the conclusion that if I do the pad stitching right, I just might be able to get the pleats to fall into place without any of the usual basting and vinegar setting.  (cross your fingers!)

Tomorrow it's cut out day.  I told Bit that she could have the hat if there was enough fabric left for it, so I'm bringing in my big folding table to lay the fabric and pattern out on.  If I'm lucky, my three yards of 60" wool will be enough for two coats and two hats!  Goodness knows I hope my 8 yards of horsehair canvas will be enough interfacing!  I read the instructions for the coat, only to find out what I assumed was bias tubing for the bows was supposed to be ribbon, so I ordered some vintage velvet ribbon two days ago  that looks to be a good match for my fabric.  In fact, it was the only thing I could find that looks anywhere near close!  So I'll be using that for the band and ties on the hats, adding the bow in the center, and both coats will have the bows at the top end of the pleats.  Lots of lovely vintage style for the girls.....